Yes — we ship live fish, shrimp, invertebrates, and aquatic plants across the US. All live orders are packed with the animal's safety as the absolute first priority, using insulated boxes, heat or cool packs (depending on the season), and sufficient oxygen to handle transit times safely.

Frozen foods require express shipping and are available for local pickup or express courier delivery only — they cannot be sent via standard mail.

Live animals are packed in double-sealed, oxygen-inflated bags with enough water to keep them comfortable for the journey. Bags are wrapped in insulating material and placed in a polystyrene-lined box. Heat or cool packs are added based on seasonal and destination temperatures to maintain a safe transit temperature.

Plants are packed separately in damp paper or plastic bags to keep them moist without waterlogging them. Mosses and rhizome plants are bagged with a small amount of water; stem plants are wrapped damp and packed upright where possible.

We stand behind every animal we ship. If an animal arrives dead, we ask that you:

• Take a clear photo of the unopened bag alongside the deceased animal within 2 hours of confirmed delivery
• Send the photo and your order number to us via email or our contact page
• Do not delay — claims submitted after 2 hours of delivery may not be accepted

Once confirmed, we will offer a replacement or store credit at our discretion. We are not responsible for losses caused by incorrect acclimation, unsuitable water parameters, or extended delays caused by the customer not being home to receive the delivery.

All live orders are sent via express courier to minimize transit time. Delivery typically takes 1–2 business days for most metro areas. Regional and remote areas may take slightly longer — we will advise if your location requires special arrangements before dispatching live animals.

Orders are dispatched Monday to Wednesday only to ensure animals do not sit in a depot over the weekend. Orders placed Thursday to Sunday will be held and dispatched the following Monday.

Yes — local pickup is available and is our preferred option for large or temperature-sensitive orders. If you are local, select pickup at checkout and we will contact you to arrange a suitable time. Pickup orders can often be ready same-day or next-day depending on stock availability.

Proper acclimation is one of the most important things you can do to give your new fish the best start. We recommend the float and drip method:

• Float the sealed bag in your tank for 15–20 minutes to equalize temperature
• Open the bag and add a small amount of your tank water every 5 minutes over the next 20–30 minutes
• Once the bag water volume has doubled, net the fish out (do not pour the bag water into your tank) and release them gently
• Turn off bright lights for a few hours to reduce stress

Shrimp are significantly more sensitive to parameter changes than most fish and require a slower, more careful acclimation. We strongly recommend drip acclimation:

• Float the sealed bag for 20 minutes to equalize temperature
• Open the bag and place shrimp + water into a small container or bucket
• Using airline tubing with a knot or valve, start a slow drip (1 drop per second) from your tank into the container
• Drip for 45–60 minutes until the container water volume has tripled
• Net the shrimp out and add them to the tank — discard the container water

Caridina shrimp (Crystal Reds, Blue Bolts) are especially sensitive and benefit from the full 60-minute drip.

Yes. All livestock goes through an observation period in our own systems before being listed for sale. During this time we monitor for signs of disease, ensure animals are feeding, and confirm they are stable and healthy. We only list animals we are confident in.

We still recommend setting up a quarantine tank if you keep existing fish, as introducing any new animal — even healthy ones — carries a small risk of introducing new pathogens to an established system.

Every product listing includes temperament information and basic compatibility notes. As a general guide:

• Community fish (tetras, rasboras, corydoras, most livebearers) are peaceful and work well together in appropriately sized tanks
• Semi-aggressive species (tiger barbs, some cichlids) may nip fins or claim territory — research tankmates carefully
• Aggressive species (bettas, large cichlids, oscars) are often best kept alone or with very carefully chosen tankmates

If you're unsure whether two species will work together, reach out before purchasing — we're happy to advise.

Yes — it is completely normal for fish and shrimp to refuse food for the first 24–72 hours after arrival. The stress of shipping and being introduced to a new environment suppresses their appetite temporarily. Do not overfeed trying to entice them — uneaten food will foul the water and make things worse.

Simply leave them alone, keep lights dim, and offer a small amount of their preferred food after 24 hours. Most animals will be eating normally within a few days.

The nitrogen cycle is the single most important concept in fishkeeping. In a new aquarium, fish waste and uneaten food break down into ammonia — which is toxic. Over time, beneficial bacteria colonize your filter and substrate and convert ammonia into nitrite (also toxic), then into nitrate (far less harmful at low levels).

This process takes 4–8 weeks in a new tank. Adding fish before the cycle is complete is one of the most common causes of unexplained fish deaths. We strongly recommend cycling your tank first — use a quality water test kit to confirm ammonia and nitrite have both reached 0 before adding livestock.

The two main categories of dwarf shrimp have different requirements:

• Neocaridina shrimp (Cherry, Blue Dream, Black Rose, etc.): Temperature 18–28°C (64–82°F), pH 6.5–8.0, TDS 150–250ppm. Hardy and adaptable — suitable for most dechlorinated tap water.
• Caridina shrimp (Crystal Red, Blue Bolt, etc.): Temperature 20–24°C (68–75°F), pH 5.8–6.8, TDS 100–150ppm. Require soft, acidic water — usually achieved with RO water and an active buffering substrate.

Both types are extremely sensitive to ammonia and nitrite (must be 0), copper (even trace amounts are lethal), and sudden parameter changes. Stability matters more than hitting exact numbers.

For most community fish tanks, a 20–30% water change once a week is a good rule of thumb. This keeps nitrates in check and replenishes trace minerals without destabilizing parameters.

For shrimp tanks, smaller and more frequent water changes (10–15% weekly) are preferred — sudden changes in water volume can trigger a molting crisis. Always use dechlorinated water that has been matched to the temperature of your tank before adding it.

Yes — always. US tap water is treated with chlorine and/or chloramines, which are toxic to fish, shrimp, and the beneficial bacteria in your filter. A quality water conditioner neutralizes these instantly and should be added to every bucket of new water before it goes into your tank.

It is one of the cheapest and most important products you can keep on hand as a fish keeper.

Not always — it depends on the plants you choose. Many popular species thrive without CO₂:

• No CO₂ needed: Java Fern, Anubias, Java Moss, Cryptocorynes, Vallisneria, Hornwort, most floating plants
• Benefit from CO₂: Rotala, Ludwigia, carpeting plants like HC Cuba and Monte Carlo, most stem plants in general
• Require CO₂ for best results: HC Cuba, Glossostigma, high-tech carpets

For a low-tech (no CO₂) setup, stick to slow-growing, low-light plants. They are less demanding, more forgiving of imperfect conditions, and often more algae-resistant.

Plant melt is extremely common and almost always temporary. Many aquatic plants — especially Cryptocorynes and tissue culture plants — are grown in emersed (above water) or laboratory conditions before being sold. When submerged in your tank, they shed their old leaves and grow new ones adapted to submersed life.

This process can look alarming but is completely normal. Simply remove any decaying leaves to prevent them fouling the water, leave the roots and rhizome in place, and be patient. New growth typically appears within 2–4 weeks.

There are two reliable methods:

• Gel superglue (cyanoacrylate): Apply a small amount to the dry hardscape surface, press the plant firmly in place, and submerge. Sets within seconds on contact with water and is completely safe once cured. Best for Anubias, Bucephalandra, and individual moss clumps.
• Cotton thread or fishing line: Wrap the plant against the hardscape with several passes of thread. Cotton thread will naturally break down and disappear as the plant attaches; fishing line can be removed once the plant has anchored itself (usually 4–6 weeks).

Never bury the rhizome of Anubias or Java Fern — they must remain above the substrate or they will rot.

These are our top picks for beginners — all thrive in low to medium light with no CO₂ required:

• Java Fern — virtually indestructible, attaches to hardscape, slow growing
• Anubias Nana — extremely hardy, tolerates low light, slow and steady
• Java Moss — grows in almost any condition, great for shrimp tanks
• Cryptocoryne Wendtii — once established, very low maintenance
• Hornwort — fast growing nutrient sponge, floats or plants, almost impossible to kill
• Amazon Frogbit — floating plant, no planting required, excellent for water quality

Neocaridina shrimp (Cherry, Blue Dream, Black Rose, Snowball, etc.) are hardy, adaptable, and perfect for beginners. They tolerate a wide range of water parameters and breed readily in most dechlorinated tap water setups.

Caridina shrimp (Crystal Red, Crystal Black, Blue Bolt, Taiwan Bee) are more demanding, requiring soft, acidic water — typically achieved with RO water remineralized with a Caridina-specific mineral supplement and an active buffering substrate. They are more sensitive to parameter swings but are highly sought after for their vivid coloration and premium grades.

If you're new to shrimp, start with Neocaridina. Once you're comfortable, Caridina is a rewarding next step.

You can — but their offspring will revert toward wild-type coloration over time. Neocaridina varieties (Red Cherry, Blue Dream, Yellow Goldenback, etc.) are all the same species (Neocaridina davidi) and will interbreed freely. The resulting offspring typically lose the vivid selective breeding of their parents and produce dull wild-colored shrimp within a generation or two.

If maintaining color purity matters to you, keep each variety in a separate tank. If you just want a mixed colony for the fun of it, mixing is perfectly fine — just don't expect consistent coloration in the offspring.

Hiding is completely normal for the first 1–2 weeks after introduction as shrimp explore and settle in. It is also normal during a molt — shrimp become very vulnerable when they shed their exoskeleton and will retreat until their new shell has hardened (usually 12–48 hours).

If hiding persists beyond 2 weeks or is accompanied by shrimp dying, check your water parameters immediately — especially ammonia, nitrite, and pH. Persistent hiding in established shrimp is often the first sign of deteriorating water quality or a copper contamination issue.

Shrimp are omnivorous scavengers and will graze constantly on biofilm, algae, and any organic matter in the tank. In an established planted tank, they may require very little supplemental feeding at all.

For supplemental feeding, we recommend:

• Shrimp-specific pellets or powders — formulated with the right protein/mineral balance
• Blanched vegetables — zucchini, spinach, cucumber, and sweet potato are all loved by shrimp
• Frozen baby brine shrimp or daphnia — excellent protein source for breeding females
• Algae wafers — a reliable staple food

Feed small amounts every 1–2 days and remove any uneaten food after a few hours. Overfeeding is one of the most common causes of water quality issues in shrimp tanks.

We process orders quickly, so please contact us as soon as possible if you need to make a change. Orders that have not yet been packed can generally be modified or canceled without issue. Once an order has been packed and/or dispatched, we are unable to make changes.

Reach out via our contact page with your order number and we'll do our best to help.

We sincerely apologize if this happens — it is rare but mistakes occur. Please contact us within 48 hours of receiving your order with a photo of what you received and your order number. We will arrange for the correct item to be sent at our expense as quickly as possible.

Due to the nature of live products, we are unable to accept returns on fish, shrimp, invertebrates, or aquatic plants once they have been received. This policy exists to protect the health of our existing stock and the welfare of the animals themselves.

If your order arrives in poor condition or there is a legitimate issue with what you received, please refer to our DOA policy or contact us directly — we will always work with you to find a fair resolution.

Contact us within 48 hours of receiving your order with a clear photo showing the issue and your order number. For dry goods (supplies, substrate, hardscape, etc.) that arrive damaged or faulty, we will offer a replacement or refund depending on the situation.

We take pride in packaging orders carefully, but transit damage does occasionally occur. Don't hesitate to get in touch — we'll sort it out.

The best way to reach us is via our Contact page. We aim to respond to all inquiries within 24 hours on business days. For urgent matters regarding a live order in transit, please mark your message as urgent and include your order number.

We are a small, passionate team and we genuinely enjoy hearing from our customers — whether it's a quick question, a care query, or showing us photos of your tank setup.